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Tim Richards
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Home | Australia | Pacific | Asia | Americas | Africa & Middle East | Rail

Poland (Jump to Britain & Ireland, Germany or More Europe instead)



A Dream of Trains
The New Daily
, 3 June 2020

"Locked down in my apartment in Melbourne’s CBD, I dreamt of trains. For the past decade I’ve increasingly written about rail travel, drawn more and more into a love of trains. It doesn’t matter what trains they are – luxury 'rail cruises' are impressive, but so to me is a berth in a weathered old-school sleeper car or a seat on any intercity train..."

Discussing the delights of rail travel, with examples - including
train journeys in Poland.

[Read the full article here]

A Lonelier Planet?
The New Daily
, 1 May 2020

"Travel has added so much to people’s lives, and Lonely Planet has been an integral part of that experience. Australians in particular have had their hands held by this knowledgeable friend (as the guidebooks sometimes seemed, with their laconic and honest style), as we stepped off a plane somewhere that would have otherwise seemed daunting. We’re famously intrepid travellers, exploring beyond the tourist traps. Lonely Planet can claim part of the credit for that..."

Reflecting on the challenges Lonely Planet faces in the COVID-19 crisis, with references to past LP research assignments in Poland.

[Read the full article here]

Hitler's Secret Bunker Where He Nearly Met His End
Traveller
, 31 July 2019

"This military base was built within a forest, hidden by trees and camouflage netting. As the Soviet Union's army approached in late 1944, the order was given to demolish it with explosives. But the enormous concrete bunkers were so hefty, with two metre thick walls, they were merely left fractured and broken. The result is a fascinating collection of shattered buildings scattered through the woods, in equal parts creepy and thought-provoking..."

Exploring the eerie ruins of the Wolf's Lair in northeast Poland.

[Read the full article here]

Malbork Castle Has an Amazing Restaurant
Traveller
, 11 February 2019

"He's emerged from the kitchen to deliver a dessert that's an unconventional delight: a confection of white chocolate, sesame seeds, halva, blackcurrant sauce and fruit, served in a glass inside a small pink cage. Outside the restaurant, however, things seem less light-hearted as I take a guided tour of Malbork, the world's largest brick castle and a symbol of the historic rivalry between the Germanic knights and the former Kingdom of Poland. Spread out along the Nogat River, its scarred brick-red bulk hints at the many battles it has seen..."

Eating and touring within the impressive medieval brick castle at Malbork, Poland.

[Read the full article here]

Travel Writer on a Lonely Road
WQ
, December 2018 - February 2019

"In truth, there is no typical guidebook writer day. People often respond to hearing about my Lonely Planet gigs by saying 'That must be fun.' To which I say 'That’s the wrong adjective.' Stimulating, yes, fascinating, yes, memorable, yes, but not fun. Fun is what occurs when you travel less intensely. But the pay-off comes when I’m able to take my focus off the job, just for a moment, and feel the full impact of the glorious place I’m standing in..."

Describing the challenges of travel guidebook writing in Poland, in the Queensland Writers Centre magazine.

[Subscribe to read the full article here]

Hooray for Hollywoodge!
www.lonelyplanet.com, 10 August 2018

"Warsaw is lively and Kraków is beautiful, but Poland’s third-largest city remains a mystery to many travellers. However, Łódź, pronounced 'Woodge', has plenty to offer. With its industrial heritage and movie-making magic, it’s a city with varied attractions, matched by lively dining and nightlife along its Art Nouveau-styled main street. What’s more, it’s still great value for money..."

Exploring the cinematic and industrial heritage of
Łódź, Poland.

[Read the full article here]

Poland to Ukraine by Sleeper Train
Traveller
, 7 June 2018

"According to old movies, there were two types of European long-distance train. One was the sexy, luxurious sleeper such as the Orient Express, carrying exiled duchesses to elegant cities like Paris. The other was a shabby train packed with foreign agents and shady smugglers, hoping to slip unnoticed past the Iron Curtain. You might think that age of exoticism and intrigue on the rails is gone; replaced by shiny high-speed trains with bland open carriages, zipping across unmonitored borders. But you'd be wrong..."

Riding overnight on a train between Poland and Lviv, Ukraine; then on to Kiev.

[Read the full article here]

Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: Europe (ed. 2)
October 2017

A guide to the Central European nation, including attractions, accommodation, dining, nightlife, history and culture.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.


Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: Eastern Europe (ed. 14)
October 2017

A comprehensive guide to the European nation, covering attractions, accommodation, dining, nightlife, history and culture.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.


Walking the History of Gdańsk
www.lonelyplanet.com, 9 September 2017

"Port cities are always interesting. Their architecture is a legacy of trading prosperity, and their cultures are influenced by a cosmopolitan past of merchants and sailors. Poland’s Baltic city Gdańsk has all that and more, with a tumultuous history that’s left its mark and added character. The best way to experience this vibrant place is by walking its historic heart..."

Outlining a walking tour through the historic streets of
Gdańsk, Poland.

[Read the full article here]

What Can Poland Teach Us About Freedom?
BBC Travel
, 7 August 2017

"What really caught my eye, however, is the older structure next to it: a sturdy set of metal gates attached to a blue guardhouse, with the words Stocznia Gdańska in huge block letters above. This is no ordinary gate – in fact it might be the most significant in modern European history. For this is Gate Two of what was once the Lenin Shipyard. It was near here that electrician Lech Wałęsa scaled the wall to organise a strike by workers against Poland’s then-communist government..."

Learning about Poland's struggle for freedom, at the European Solidarity Centre in Gdańsk.

[Read the full article here]

The Kick of Stalin's Cow
1 February 2017

“Applying communism to Poland is like trying to saddle a cow.” - Josef Stalin

The Kick of Stalin’s Cow is an engaging and humorous travelogue. It traces a trip around Poland with emphasis on the communist past, including visits to significant communist-era relics, and interviews with Poles who lived through the period.

The book also charts my relationship with Poland over two decades - as a resident, a teacher, and a travel writer who’s made multiple visits to the Central European nation.

Available from Amazon.com as ebook and paperback.

[Buy the book here]

Best Travel Finds of 2016
Traveller (The Age & Sydney Morning Herald),
31 December
2016

"You wouldn't expect to find a link to The Bard in Poland's historic Baltic port, but in the 17th-century, Gdańsk hosted English actors in a theatre based on an Elizabethan London playhouse. Constructed on the same site, the Shakespeare Theatre is an imposing structure of black brick, with a bright timber interior and a retractable roof. Take a guided tour for fine rooftop views of the city, or catch a surtitled play within..."

Introducing the Shakespeare Theatre in Gdańsk, Poland
.
 

[Read the full article here]

The Alternative Destinations to Europe's Most Crowded Tourist Cities
Traveller
, 16 December 2016

"Many people in popular European cities rely on tourism for their income, but it seems even these places can hit a point at which the crowds become a problem. What's to be done? Ration arrivals to these cities, and place turnstiles at its parks and most popular streets? I have another solution in mind: go elsewhere. What if we... or at least some of us... chose other European cities to visit? Places that have charms of their own, without being swamped by tourists?"

Proposing attractive alternatives (including Warsaw) to the crowded tourist cities of Europe
.
Available for republication (print and Web).
Images available.
 
[Read the full article here]

Exploring the First Forest: Białowieża National Park
lonelyplanet.com
, 28 October 2016

"In eastern Poland, straddling the border with Belarus, is an ancient forest where wild European bison roam. That’s reason enough to visit Białowieża National Park, but its greenery is a marvel too, little touched by human activity and home to numerous species of animals and plants. While borders and human populations around it have dramatically altered, this remarkable natural refuge has endured..."

Walking within the Strictly Protected Area of an age-old forest in Poland
.
Not available for republication.
Images available.

[Read the full article here]

A Recipe for Post-Communist Cool
Lonely Planet: Secret Europe 2016,
May 2016

"The Polish capital might have come out of WWII as a pile of rubble, but this gritty city has emerged in the 21st century as a fascinating patchwork of architectural styles with an entertainment scene unmatched in Poland. In addition to its lively nightlife and diverse dining, in recent years it’s built up a wealth of cutting-edge museums addressing the light and dark of its turbulent past: including the Chopin Museum, the Warsaw Rising Museum, and the Museum of the History of Polish Jews..."

Highlighting Warsaw, Poland among a collection of ten lesser-known European destinations.


Warsaw, Silesia, Wielkopolska, and Mazovia & Podlasie chapters
Lonely Planet: Poland (ed. 8),
March 2016

A comprehensive guide to these Polish regions, covering sights, hotels, restaurants, entertainment, history and culture.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.


24 hours in Poznań
www.lonelyplanet.com
, 5 January 2016

"Kraków, Warsaw and Gdańsk are the 'big three' of Polish tourism; many travellers never visit any other city in Poland. In the west, however, Poznań beckons with plentiful museums, interesting architecture, and diverse options for dining and nightlife. In addition, the city is steeped in Poland’s deepest history, having been the nation’s first capital. Here’s how to spend a day there..."

Detailing how to spend a day in Poznań, Poland
.
Not available for republication.
Images available.

[Read the full article here]

How to Travel Around Poland by Train
www.lonelyplanet.com
, 23 October 2015

"Forget the car – with a rail network that radiates to all parts of Poland from its biggest cities, a much better way to experience the country is by train. Whether departing from shiny new stations or crumbling old ones, along busy main lines or sleepy branch lines, aboard brand new trains or communist-era carriages, Polish train travel is never dull..."

Explaining the ins and outs of train travel in Poland
.
Not available for republication.
Images available.

[Read the full article here]

The Past is Another Lingua Franca
The Age
, 22 August 2015

"Curious about the language and its creator, I've come to the Ludwik Zamenhof​ Centre in the eastern Polish city of Białystok to view its permanent exhibition: The Białystok of Young Zamenhof. Esperanto was invented by Zamenhof, a Russian-and Yiddish-speaking Jew who grew up in the city when it was part of the Russian Empire. After years of detailed work outside his hours as an ophthalmologist, he sprang his creation upon the world in book form in 1887, under the pseudonym 'Doktoro Esperanto'..."

Visiting a centre devoted to the constructed language Esperanto, in Bia
łystok, Poland.
Available for republication (print only).
Images available.

[Read the full article here]

Bright Lights of the Neon City
The Sunday Age
, 12 July 2015

"Huge scattered letters are propped along its outside walls, and the interior is hung with enormous signs. The first I spot is the Berlin sign, then there's a cavalcade of neon signs from all sorts of businesses: grocery stores, cafes, bars, restaurants, banks. Many are restored and lit, but scattered at floor level are others – often in pieces – that are faded and rusty. Somehow they're no less attractive than the working signs above them, an evocative reminder of the faded grandeur of the neon art..."

Inspecting the collection of the Neon Museum in Warsaw, Poland
.
Available for republication (print only).
Images available.

[Read the full article here]

Ten Things I Love About Poland
RoyalAuto
, May 2015
(iPad magazine only)


"As you walk around this attractive southwestern city, you can’t help but notice its many statues of fairy-tale dwarves – above doorways, at street level, tucked into nooks and crannies. They’re a tribute to the dwarf-themed graffiti painted by a dissident group in the communist era, a quirky echo of the past..."

Detailing ten great attractions of the Central European nation.


Monuments and Miracles
The Age & Sydney Morning Herald, 5 April 2014

"Poland's southern city of Krakow is something of a two-part miracle. First, as the nation's royal capital until the late 16th century, it built a heritage of grand and beautiful architecture. Then, as if its guardian angel was working overtime, it was the only major Polish city not to be severely damaged in World War II. Its streets are thus filled with original, graceful facades and plazas, topped by a spectacular castle on a hill above the Vistula River..."

Outlining 24 hours of attractions and activities in Krak
ów, Poland.
Available for republication (print only).
Images available.

[Read the full article here]

Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: Europe on a Shoestring
(ed. 8)
October 2013

A guide to the Central European nation aimed at the budget traveller, including attractions, accommodation, dining, nightlife, history and culture.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.


Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: Central Europe (ed. 10)
October 2013

Outlines the cultural and natural attractions of Poland, along with details of accommodation, entertainment and dining options.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.


Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: Eastern Europe (ed. 12)
October 2013

A comprehensive guide to the European nation, covering attractions, accommodation, dining, nightlife, history and culture.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.


Pack It In: How to Travel With Only Carry-on Luggage
Fairfax Traveller
, 7 August 2013

"My name's Tim, and I'm an obsessive light packer. I only ever travel with a cabin luggage-sized backpack, no matter where I go or how long I stay. In 2011, for example, I spent eight weeks in Europe. My only luggage? That trusty, unassuming High Sierra backpack I bought in 2005. Travelling like this isn't easy. Being self-limited to hand luggage involves a high level of obsession and a cultish devotion to the virtues of travelling light..."

Explaining my light packing "Rule of Three", with specific reference to travel in Poland, the UK and Italy [Includes video clip].
Available for republication (print only).
Images available.

[Read the full article here]

Retracing Wodehouse's War
The Age
, 9 March 2013

"'If this is Upper Silesia, what must Lower Silesia be like?' Sitting in a second-class seat on a slow train from the Polish city of Opole, I'm reminded of PG Wodehouse's quip about this notably flat and undramatic region. Then I step out at Toszek, the train trundles off, and I'm left on a low, crumbling platform next to an imposing red-brick station building. It was in this small town that Wodehouse, the great British comic writer and creator of Jeeves and Wooster, was imprisoned as a civilian prisoner by the German army in 1940..."

Making a pilgrimage to the wartime prison where PG Wodehouse was held.
Available for republication (print only).
Images available.

[Read the full article here]

Treasures of Kraków
International Traveller, January 2013

"I’m sitting outside a restaurant on Kraków’s Plac Matejki, with medieval history acting as bookends to the long, narrow plaza. Directly across from my glass of chilled Polish lager is the Grunwald Monument, an imposing set of statuary topped by King Władysław II Jagiełło on a horse. Way back in 1410, the armies of this noble gent defeated the German Teutonic Knights, and Poland is not about to forget it..."

Revealing the lesser-known attractions of Poland's former royal capital.
Available for republication (print and Web).
Images available.

[Read the full article here]


Ramped Up
The Sunday Age, 19 August 2012

"I’m on a canal boat somewhere in northern Poland when an extraordinary thing happens. Standing at the bow, I can see we’re heading directly toward a ramp rising gently out of the canal. Then, as we top the rise, I’m startled to see what’s next – a long downward grassy slope resembling the side of a hill, ending way below at another length of canal. Sliding down it, the boat will drop more than 20 metres toward sea level..."

Cruising along the unusual Ostróda-Elbląg Canal in Masuria, Poland.
Available for republication (print only).
Images available.

Sunset at Toszek
Plum Lines, Spring 2012

"So I return to the bench to sit in the light drizzle, looking up at the windows and imagining Plum looking back at me - we are, after all, separated not by space but only by the trifling matter of seven decades. If I could somehow pierce that veil of time and shout up to him from the roadway, what would I say? 'Don’t do the broadcasts!' comes to mind. If he’d listen, it would save everyone a lot of heartache..."

Visiting the town in Poland where author PG Wodehouse was once held prisoner.

Available for republication (print and Web).
Images available.


Zapiekanka & Daulat Ki Chaat
Lonely Planet: The World's Best Street Food
, March 2012

I provide history, descriptions and recipes for two street food treats - Zapiekanka from Poland and Daulat Ki Chaat from India.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.


Kraków, Silesia & Wielkopolska chapters
Lonely Planet: Poland (ed. 7),
April 2012

A comprehensive guide to these Polish regions, covering sights, hotels, restaurants, entertainment, history and culture.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.


Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: Europe on a Shoestring
(ed. 7)
October 2011

A guide to the Central European nation aimed at the budget traveller, including attractions, accommodation, dining, nightlife, history and culture.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.


Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: Central Europe (ed. 9)
October 2011

Outlines the cultural and natural attractions of Poland, along with details of accommodation, entertainment and dining options.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.


Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: Eastern Europe (ed. 11)
October 2011

A comprehensive guide to the European nation, covering attractions, accommodation, dining, nightlife, history and culture.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.


Top of the Pile
The Sunday Age, 14 August 2011

"The two oldest - Krakus and Wanda - are the most fascinating, simply because so little is known about them. They predate Polish history and it seems they’re not burial mounds, as no remains have been found inside them. Legends link them with Krakus, a legendary leader from the time of the Roman Empire, and with Wanda, a queen who sacrificed herself to save her country..."

Ascending the distinctive memorial mounds of Kraków, Poland.
Available for republication (print only).

Images available.

Beside the (Baltic) Seaside
www.lonelyplanet.com, 2 February 2011

"'Kawa… herbata!' A cry of 'Tea... coffee!' in Polish is not something you’d expect to hear while sunning yourself at a European beach resort, from a man selling drinks to bathers. In Greek, perhaps; Spanish, maybe; but not Polish..."

Exploring the seaside attractions of Kołobrzeg, on Poland's Baltic coast.
Not available for republication.

[Read the full article here]

24 Hours in Gdańsk
www.lonelyplanet.com, 1 February 2011

"Gdańsk is a thousand-year old port city with a dramatic history of war and insurrection, and contrasting periods of trade and prosperity. Walk its beautifully restored streets for 24 hours to pick up its Baltic vibe..."

Spending a day in this historic port city on Poland's Baltic coast.


On the Road: The Next Big Jesus
Lonely Planet Magazine, February 2011

"In November, the town erected what it hopes is the world's biggest statue of Jesus. At 33 metres high, it is said to be taller than Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro (if you don’t count the latter’s pedestal), and Cristo de la Concordia in Cochabamba, Bolivia (if you count the Polish statue's crown). One thing is for sure, though - visitors will flock to see this mighty divine folly."

Detailing a massive new statue of Jesus Christ in the Polish town of Świebodzin.
Not available for republication.


The Past is Present but There's Fun in Future
Escape, 16 January 2011
(News Ltd's Sunday travel section)

"A wise guy once said that 'History is just one damn thing after another', and you can’t help noticing how pieces of that history pile up in Poland. A castle here, a cobblestone market square there, and pretty soon you’re up to your neck in this nation’s fascinating past. That’s not to stay that things always stay the same, however. Within the framework of its historic and social attractions, there’s always something new under the Polish sun..."

Detailing ten new things to see and do in Poland.
Available for republication (print and Web).
Images available.

[Read the full article here]


Eastern Europe Exposed
NineMSN Travel, January 2011

"If you'd assumed that bison were only spotted in old Western movies, stampeding across the prairies and causing our cowboy heroes no end of bother, think again. On Poland's eastern border with Belarus lies Bialowieza National Park, the last place you can see European bison in the wild."

Revealing five appealing and lesser-known attractions in Central and Eastern Europe.


Best Vampire Spotting Locales &
Top Ten Historical Re-enactments
Lonely Planet's Best in Travel 2011
, November 2010

Two lists of distinctive travel experiences in locales across the world (including one in Poland).

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.


Schindler Factory Museum Takes Visitors Through a Nightmare
Los Angeles Times, 24 October 2010

"Like someone who already knows the ending of the story he's reading, I knew what was coming next. The exhibits lead into a train station waiting room where a sign on the wall is marked '31 August 1939 - The last day of the summer holidays.' It's a mundane chamber with a bicycle propped against the wall, but military mobilization posters underline the fragility of that summer's peace."

A journey through a chilling new wartime museum in Kraków, Poland.
Available for republication (print and Web).
Images available.

[Read the full article here]


Forget Western Europe
www.lonelyplanet.com, 22 October 2010

"The Baltic coast of Pomerania is dotted with beach resort towns that haven’t much changed since they became popular with 19th-century German holiday makers. They feature fine white sandy beaches, decorated beer gardens, wicker beach chairs and spa treatments, along with old-fashioned seaside amusements..."

Describing Eastern European equivalents to the great attractions of the West.
Not available for republication.

[Read the full article here]

On the Road: Esperanto Dreaming
Lonely Planet Magazine, September 2010

"Serendipity is the travel writer’s best friend. What to do for six hours in transit in the northeastern Polish city of Białystok? As I alight from a city bus, the answer unexpectedly presents itself in the form of an imposing bust of Ludwig Zamenhof, set within a small park. Zamenhof was the creator of Esperanto, the famous artificial language, and his achievement is recognised in the recently created Esperanto Trail."

Exploring the Esperanto Trail in the city of Białystok, Poland.
Not available for republication.


Go Figure
The Age, 21 August 2010

"I’m sitting on a low red brick wall within a decaying factory complex in Wroclaw, Poland. Beyond artist Tomasz Moczek, perched on his rickety bar stool, I can see the doorway to his studio, a cool cavernous chamber within this defunct brewery. It’s a beautiful day filled with warm sunshine, and beers are passed around as I chat with Moczek and his friends Marcin and Kuba. The topic of conversation is gnomes."

A letter from Wrocław, Poland, investigating its intriguing gnome statues.
Available for republication (print only).
Images available.

Poland for Couples: Beaches, Beer Gardens and Medieval Beauty
Holidays for Couples, March 2010

"Running the length of the swimming beach, this path is lined by seemingly endless shops and stalls selling cheap souvenirs and holiday-maker food. And that’s one of the big attractions of Kolobrzeg. Its offerings are much the same as when it was part of Germany in the 19th century: a quaint mix of beer gardens and spa treatments, along with old-fashioned amusements."

Soaking up romance and relaxation along Poland's sandy Baltic coast.
Available for republication (print and Web).

Images available.

After Utopia Goes Bust
The Sun-Herald, 14 March 2010

"There’s a deliberately raw look to many of the statues, as if they’ve been part-hewn out of stone but never quite finished – presumably the intention was to show strength and power. However there’s also a dull sameness about most of them, as if one artist in a Moscow garret did the lot – which was also the idea, I suppose."

Exploring a gallery of defunct communist art in Kozłówka, Poland.
Available for republication (print only).

Images available.

Hooray for Hollywoodge
The Sunday Age, 31 January 2010

"'Roman Polanski used to sit right there between classes.' Professor Andrzej Bednarek points to a stairwell within Poland’s National Film School. We gaze at the stairs together, he in fond reflection and I in moderate reverence. It’s not everyday you encounter a renowned director’s favourite spot for a smoko. And as Lodz is pronounced 'woodge' in Polish, there’s been no end of puns about 'Hollywoodge'."

Exploring the cinematic attractions of Łódź, Poland's film hub.
Available for republication (print only).

Images available.

Beyond Politics and War
Escape, 1 November 2009
(News Ltd's Sunday travel section)

"Solidarity? John Paul II? That communist general with the creepy dark sunglasses who declared martial law? It may be 20 years since the fall of the Berlin Wall, but to many Australians, Poland is still a jumble of images from the turbulent 1980s.However, things have come a long way since General Jaruzelski (the sunglasses guy) was removed from power in 1990."

A week's itinerary through the Polish cities of Kraków, Wrocław, Warsaw, Toruń and Gdańsk.
Available for republication (print and Web).
Images available.


Europe's Red Remains
Backpacker Essentials, November 2009

"A mention of the Cold War will more likely prompt thoughts of Californian indie band Cold War Kids than the dark days of the Berlin Wall. However, all is not lost. The Wall fell 20 years ago, but Central and Eastern Europe are littered with remnants from the strange, increasingly distant era of the Iron Curtain. That’s the beauty of this part of Europe..."

Detailing ten memorable communist-era relics in Central and Eastern Europe.


Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: Europe on a Shoestring (ed. 6)
October 2009

"Warsaw may not be the prettiest of Poland's cities, but this bustling business centre is home to a dazzling array of dining and nightlife options. It's true, however, that the city can be hard work, its traffic-choked streets lined with uninspiring massive concrete buildings.
However, look at Warsaw with a historic perspective - as a city that's survived everything fate could throw at it - and you'll see the capital in an entirely new light.
"

A guide to this Central European nation aimed at the budget traveller, including attractions, accommodation, dining, nightlife, history and culture.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.


A Tale of Three Cities
Ryanair Magazine, September 2009

"I don’t think I’m staying in Adolf Hitler’s old room. At least, I hope not. The 20th century’s most infamous dictator is not someone you’d want to be associated with, even at seven decades’ remove. But while it’s had its share of dodgy guests, the Hotel Monopol in the Polish city of Wroclaw has also welcomed plenty of the right sorts through its doors, including Pablo Picasso and Marlene Dietrich."

Exploring three attractive cities in Poland's west: Wrocław, Poznań and Toruń.


Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: Central Europe (ed. 8)
September 2009

"Away from the cities, Poland is a diverse land, from its northern sandy beaches and magnificent southern mountains to the lost-in-time forest of Białowieża National Park in the east. And everywhere there are seldom-visited towns to discover, with their own ruined castles, picturesque squares and historic churches."

Outlines the cultural and natural attractions of this nation, along with details of accommodation, entertainment and dining options.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.


Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: Eastern Europe (ed. 10)
September 2009

"If they were handing out prizes for 'most eventful history', Poland would be sure to get a gong. The nation has spent centuries at the pointy end of history, grappling with war, invasion and foreign occupation. Nothing, however, has succeeded in suppressing the Poles' strong sense of nationhood and cultural identity, as exemplified by the ancient royal capital of Kraków, with its breathtaking castle."

A comprehensive guide to this Central European nation, covering attractions, accommodation, dining, nightlife, history and culture.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.


Polish Cinema: Weekend in Łódź
EasyJet Traveller, September 2009

"Start your visit to Poland’s second-largest city by strolling along the main drag, Ulica Piotrkowska. The Industrial Revolution transformed Łódź into a mighty player in textile manufacturing, and Piotrkowska became lined with graceful art nouveau buildings. Statues of famous locals line the street, among them the pianist Arthur Rubenstein, seated at a piano bearing a giant outstretched wing."

A whirlwind three day tour of Poland's second-biggest city and film hub.
Available for republication (print and Web).
Images available.


Art Sets Poles Apart
The Courier-Mail, 15 August 2009

"I’m on my way into a pub when I’m stopped by a dangerous revolutionary. With one fist raised in protest and the other support a flying banner, he looks up at me with clear disdain. But perhaps I’m overstating my peril. For a start, he’s looking up at me because he’s only 50 centimetres high. And he’s made of stone. And he’s a gnome."

An investigation of the quirky gnome statues of Wrocław, Poland.
Available for republication (print and Web).
Images available.

Walkley Magazine
                        cover
Only the Lonely
The Walkley Magazine, July 2009

"People often respond to hearing about my Lonely Planet gigs by saying 'That must be fun.' To which I say 'That’s the wrong adjective.' Stimulating, yes, fascinating, yes, memorable, yes, but not fun. But the pay off lies in the moments when I’m able to take my focus off the job in hand, just for a moment, and feel the full impact of the glorious place I’m standing in."

I reveal the less glamorous aspects of researching a travel guide in Poland.

24 Hours in Warsaw
The Age & The Sydney Morning Herald
18 April 2009

"The result is an intriguing blend, a core of beautifully restored classical buildings against the backdrop of overwhelming concrete structures from the communist years. As the nation’s business hub, Warsaw has a wide array of dining and entertainment options, from medieval cellar restaurants to cutting-edge nightclubs."

Spending a day exploring the attractions of Poland's capital city.
Available for republication (print only).
Images available.

[Read the full article here]

Take in Medieval Krakow's 
Communist-Era Quaintness
The Senior Traveller, February 2009

"Vinyl records sit stacked in a box, a guide to East Germany lies on a lace-covered table, and various plastic appliances decorate the tiny kitchen bench. On the wall, an image of Jesus speaks of religious convictions. This is one of the highlights of the tour, allowing a feel for how people lived in the communist years."

Investigating the communist-era attractions of Kraków, Poland.
Available for republication (print and Web).
Images available.

[Read the full article here] (on page 3)

Warsaw Rising From the Past
BBC History Magazine, November 2008

"To describe Warsaw’s history as ‘eventful’ is a major understatement. As Poland’s capital since the 16th century, the city has been at the heart of the nation’s glory days, producing geniuses such as Marie Curie and Frederic Chopin. But its darkest hour came in 1944, with the event known as the Warsaw Rising."

A profile of the historic attractions of Poland's capital city.
Not available for republication.

Poland Has Been Transformed in its Rebirth
The Sunday Telegraph, 26 October 2008

"Though it’s been almost 20 years since Poland’s Solidarity trade union toppled the country’s communist regime, this lively drinking hole is festooned with memorabilia from Poland’s years on the wrong side of the Iron Curtain. But it’s not packed with crusty old blokes sporting Karl Marx beards, plotting the return of the 'good old days'. So what’s going on?"

An investigation of the 'communist nostalgia' phenomenon in Poland.
Available for republication (print and Web).
Images available.

Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: The Europe Book
September 2008

A profile of Poland, detailing the nation's history, people, icons, cuisine and myths, along with interesting random facts. Accompanied by impressive photography.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.

Pomerania & Wielkopolska chapters
Lonely Planet: Poland (ed. 6)
May 2008

A comprehensive guide to these Polish regions, covering sights, hotels, restaurants, entertainment, history and culture.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.

Accommodation Reviews: 
Gdansk, Sopot and Torun
www.lonelyplanet.com, 2008

Reviews of a selection of lodgings, covering all budgets, in these Polish cities.
Not available for republication.

East Still Red (Sort of)
Herald Sun, 16 November 2007

"The young woman is standing heroically, dressed in a long plain dress with the arms rolled up, her eyes staring off into the future. Oh yes, and she’s holding a large fish. But this is Poland, and context is everything. The woman is on a large poster on the wall of PRL, a pub in the southwestern city of Wroclaw, and it’s a parody of a propaganda poster from Poland’s communist era."

An exploration of communist memorabilia and relics across the Central European nation.
Available for republication (print and Web).
Images available.


Lonely Planet TV: Kraków

www.lonelyplanet.tv, October 2007
.

I talk about the attractions of the southern Polish city.



A Tale of Three Cities
Medical Observer, 13 July 2007

"Western Poland is dripping with historic significance, having changed hands frequently between Polish and German rulers over the centuries. However, its tumultuous past doesn't mean that the region has a depressing, war torn air - far from it. Its beautiful architecture and lively culture is best exemplified by three major cities: Wroclaw, Poznan and Torun."

A journey through western Poland, exploring its historic beauty.
Available for republication (print and Web).
Images available.

Kazimierz: A Polish Phoenix
The Salt Lake Tribune, 11 June 2007

"Then something fascinating happened: Kazimierz was rediscovered. As the medieval centre of Krakow became dominated by tourists, young residents directed their attention to Kazimierz’s narrow, atmospheric streets, and its character-filled shops packed tightly together. Even the distressed look of the facades became an asset, adding a certain ‘alternative’ appeal."

Describes the reborn attraction of the former Jewish district of Kraków, Poland. 

This article was an instalment of the syndicated Travels With Lonely Planet column, and also appeared in:

  • The Houston Chronicle
  • The Times Union, Albany NY
and various other American newspapers.

Not available for republication.

Communist-Era Jewel
Kaleidoscope, May 2007
(LOT Polish Airlines inflight magazine)

"Founded as a working class counterweight to Krakow’s intellectual and religious traditions, Nowa Huta was a test of the communist regime’s vision of the future. Nowadays, though its massive steelworks have been scaled back, it’s just another suburb of the ancient city. But everywhere you go, its creators’ monumental design is like a message from the past."

Exploring Nowa Huta, the 1950s "workers' paradise" suburb of Kraków, Poland.
Available for republication (print and Web).
Images available.

The Pie Lady
Kaleidoscope, March 2007
(LOT Polish Airlines inflight magazine)

"Many Polish-Australians have returned to their mother country, to start businesses and take part in Poland’s new commercial life within the EU. One of these is Beata Zielinska, a Gdynia businesswoman who lived in Australia for over 20 years. As a nod to her adoptive country, she chose to manufacture a very Australian product: the humble meat pie."

Profiles a businesswoman making Aussie meat pies for sale to Polish schoolchildren.
Available for republication (print and Web).
Images available.

Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: Europe on a Shoestring
(edition 5)
March 2007

A guide to the Central European nation aimed at the budget traveller, including attractions, accommodation, dining, nightlife, history and culture.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.

Mission to Warsaw
The Sunday Age, 4 March 2007

"You can only really understand this city through the filter of its history. Warsaw is a study in light and dark, and the extremes are far apart: the ‘light’ of art, culture, achievement; the ‘dark’ of destruction and genocide. The city’s story of struggle and survival is almost overwhelming for someone brought up in sheltered Australia, but without absorbing it, you’re only getting part of the story."

The cultural highlights and tragic history of Poland's capital city.
Available for republication (print only).
Images available.

Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: Central Europe (ed. 7)
February 2007

Outlines the cultural and natural attractions of Poland, along with details of accommodation, entertainment and dining options.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.

Poland chapter
Lonely Planet: Eastern Europe (ed. 9)
February 2007

A comprehensive guide to the European nation, covering attractions, accommodation, dining, nightlife, history and culture.

This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.

Not available for republication.

Accommodation Reviews: Warsaw
www.lonelyplanet.com, 2006

Reviews of a selection of lodgings, covering all budgets, in the Polish capital.
Not available for republication.

From Tattoos to Tanks
Sydney Morning Herald, 1 October 2005

"What a revelation! Housed beneath the palace was the Museum of the Sulphur Mining Region, set up by the sulphur mining company that paid for the palace’s upkeep. It was dull and dusty, with sulphur samples, molecular models, mining outfits and sulphuric end products. In moments, I’d learned more about the topic than I’d ever intended."

Ranges through the world's oddest museums, exhibiting everything from sulphur to Spam.
Available for republication (print only).

[Read the full article here]

Clueless and Caught Up in CSI: Krakow
The Australian, 1 October 2005

"'We have here the homicide.' These aren’t words you want to hear while you’re travelling overseas. Nor do you want to glance over the shoulder of the man who’s just spoken them, to see a pile of bloody surgical gloves and the body of your dead landlord in the living room. Your absolutely stark naked dead landlord..."

A sticky personal tale of murder in the beautiful Polish city.
Available for republication (print and Web).

Poles Apart
The Sunday Mail, 9 March 1997

"The sound grew louder as we trudged along the path. It was a crisp spring day and the green fields glinted occasionally with the last of the winter snow. It was a serene country scene, the type you imagine must have been painted by an artist at one time or another. Except for the noise, of course. It grew louder, a motorised drone… then suddenly, a tractor appeared over the rise and headed straight for us."

Destination piece about Poland's historic attractions.
Available for republication (print and Web).

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Travel: Poland

I'm a member of the Australian Society of Travel Writers. This page contains examples of my travel writing, organised by location. Each entry includes a sample paragraph, and indications of available rights.

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