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Parting is such sweet sorrow
Traveller, 27 April 2024
"In the first week of the New Year I picked up a
brand-new passport. Almost ten years had passed in
the company of my old one, and it was time to
renew. But as I delighted in the crisp,
unblemished potential of my new passport, I felt
an unexpected fondness for its slightly worn
predecessor. We’d been through a lot together over
the previous decade, and the assortment of stamps
spread through its pages recalled the most
memorable border crossings..."
Discussing the fond memories prompted
by an expired passport, of travels in
Ukraine, Japan, Malaysia, South Africa,
Liechtenstein, and Fiji.
[Read the full
article here]
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A Dream of Trains
The New Daily, 3 June 2020
"Locked down in my apartment in Melbourne’s CBD, I
dreamt of trains. For the past decade I’ve
increasingly written about rail travel, drawn more
and more into a love of trains. It doesn’t matter
what trains they are – luxury 'rail cruises' are
impressive, but so to me is a berth in a weathered
old-school sleeper car or a seat on any intercity
train..."
Discussing the delights of rail travel,
with examples - including a
train journey in Africa.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Airline
Review: Emirates Economy
Traveller, 10 February 2020
"The Airbus A380 is my favourite aircraft, as even
in economy class it gives an impression of space.
The cabin is broad, the bins are high above our
heads, and Emirates sets the A380's economy
legroom at a quite reasonable pitch – so my knees
are in no risk of colliding with the seatback in
front of me. I'm also lucky in that the seat next
to me is empty, a happy situation I call 'poor
man's business class'..."
Reviewing the Economy
experience on a flight from Melbourne to
Dubai.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Markets
of Durban
roundtheworldflights.com,
30 January 2019
"Of all the markets we visit on our walking
tour of central Durban, South Africa, the most
memorable is the Bovine Market. As the name
suggests, you come to this simple space within a
low metal shed to eat beef – but not a standard
cut. The women working here dish up cow’s head,
served with steamed bread. It’s a traditional
Zulu treat, and a popular one in this maze of
markets at Warwick Junction. There are outlets
for all sorts of food and clothing, scattered
across different levels..."
Taking a tour of the
diverse street markets of Durban, South Africa.
[Read
the full article
here]
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Memories
of Mandela
roundtheworldflights.com,
25 January 2019
"My one bout of bad weather in Cape Town comes
on the day I’m sailing to Robben Island. But
gloomy weather seems appropriate for a tour to a
former prison. For it was on Robben that Nelson
Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years, after the
freedom fighter was captured and tried by South
Africa’s apartheid regime in the 1960s. Though
the prison is now a museum, nothing much seems
to have changed since the days it held political
prisoners..."
Describing a tour to
Robben Island, the former prison island off Cape Town, South Africa.
[Read
the full article
here]
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This Lively Hangout
is a Mecca for Surfers
Traveller, 15 January 2019
"'Muizenberg is the epicentre of diversity,' says
Daniel Blaauw. 'It's a really connected community.
You'll always find a happy face, a friendly person
to talk to, something interesting on the beach.' I
can see what he means as we gaze at the beach,
with its colourful huts and lively restaurants,
which has made this suburb of Cape Town a magnet
for surfers. It's a sunny weekend and surfers
carrying boards head for the waters of False
Bay..."
Taking a stroll through the
historic seafront district of Muizenberg in Cape
Town, South Africa.
[Read the
full article here] |
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A Great Place to See
the Magnificent Seven
Traveller, 21 November 2018
"I don't know what's more startling, the
open-mouthed lion or the dead zebra in the grass
next to him. The king of the jungle is only
yawning, but he has a terrifying set of teeth and
will soon be sharing his kill with his brother.
Two jackals are lurking behind the bushes, hoping
to snatch a piece of the unfortunate zebra when
the lions' backs are turned. It's the Circle of
Life in operation, big time..."
Spotting exotic wild animals in the
Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Ten Places That
Celebrate Nelson Mandela
Traveller, 12 July 2018
"The most famous inmate of this former island
prison was South African freedom fighter and
president Nelson Mandela, who was born 100 years
ago this year. An excursion to this museum in
Table Bay reveals the grim reality of his time
behind bars. Visitors to Robben are taken by bus
to key sites, including the lime quarry where
political prisoners laboured, before a former
inmate leads the way through the cell blocks. It's
a fascinating insight into a heroic struggle..."
Detailing sites in South Africa
associated with the life of freedom fighter and
president, Nelson Mandela.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Cape Grace Review
Traveller, 2 July 2018
"Cape Grace is in a prime position for sampling
the tourist delights of Cape Town, situated within
the city's historic Victoria & Alfred
Waterfront. This complex of shops, restaurants and
entertainment wraps around docks and marinas, with
great views of both the sea and Table Mountain.
With its plentiful security staff, the waterfront
is a safe space for a stroll and is often thronged
with pleasure seekers, giving it a festive
atmosphere..."
Reviewing a luxury hotel at the
V&A Waterfront in Cape Town, South Africa.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Cape Town to
Pretoria by Train – Diamond Empires to
Shanty Towns
Traveller, 18 June 2018
"A young man in a suit stands at the entrance,
proffering a tray of champagne glasses. Beyond
him, the 52 passengers on this two-night trip are
settling in among the deep sofas, high ceilings
and chandeliers, drinking bubbly and enjoying
salmon or cucumber sandwiches. The day before, I'd
been at this same station on a solo excursion to
the city's south via the suburban train network,
keeping an eye on my valuables and avoiding
slashed train seats. Today's ride is clearly in a
different class altogether..."
Taking the luxurious Pride of
Africa train from Cape Town to Pretoria, South
Africa.
[Read the
full article here] |
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The
Real Westeros (and Beyond)
The Sunday Age
7 May 2017
"The spectacular settings in Game of Thrones are
shot at locations across two continents. Seek
these out on your next overseas quest...." (This was
originally a text box as part of a longer
article in print.)
Listing filming locations of the
popular fantasy TV series Game
of Thrones, including locations in
Morocco.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Top
10: Comedy Clubs Around the World
Traveller, 7 October 2016
"The supposedly uptight island state may not seem
an obvious stop on the laughter circuit, but since
2010 this weekly comedy night founded by Pakistani
stand-up comedian Umar Rana has featured upcoming
locals to great success. Masala alumni have gone
on to success in international tours, so this is
the place to spot Asian comic talents on the
rise..."
Listing great comedy venues in the USA, Canada,
UK, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, South
Africa and Singapore.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
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Airline
Review: Emirates Economy
Traveller, 18 December 2015
"The system's programmers had fun shaking up the
usual menu options, with categories
including Middle Earth, Film Club, Disney Classics
and Arabic Cinema. The TV collection contains
tired comedy stayers such as Big Bang Theory,
along with Modern Family, Brooklyn
Nine-Nine, and dramas such as Fargo,
The Code and The Fall..."
Reviewing the economy experience on a
flight from Dubai to Frankfurt.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
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A Boy
and a Coin
Traveller (The Age
& Sydney Morning Herald),
17 October 2015
"The small boy shyly held out a coin to us, neatly
reversing the tradition of baksheesh,
whereby visitors would tip locals for providing
services. We had to laugh at the gesture. We'd
just come from Cairo, the world capital of baksheesh,
a busy, ancient, exciting city where the timely
exchange of loose change helped everyone get
through their days. Things were different here on
a quiet hilltop in western Syria, in the spring of
1994..."
Reflecting on the tragedy of the Syrian
civil war, and happier times two decades
before.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Lost
in the Old Port of Muscat
The Sunday Age, 1 March 2014
"Here and there I can spot old fortifications the
same colour as the hills, as if their turrets have
sprouted from the bare rock. The most spectacular
martial remnant is the remains of a fort built by
the Portuguese after conquering Muscat in the 16th
century. There are the graceful lines of Islamic
art here too, in the modern shelters along the
foreshore, their domes criss-crossed by geometric
patterns; and the beautiful patterned blue minaret
of the mosque at the centre of the corniche..."
Exploring the souq and alleyways of
Muttrah, the port district of Muscat, Oman.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Flight
Test: Qantas Premium Economy
Traveller (The Age
& Sydney Morning Herald),
28 February 2015
"Situated upstairs behind business class, premium
economy proves much more comfortable than economy.
In many ways, it's similar to business class, with
tables and video screens hidden beneath fixed
armrests, which then swivel up as required. The
seats are wide enough to comfortably seat me and
my wife, both people who struggle with the tight
conditions in economy. The seats are firm, but
there's plenty of legroom..."
Reviewing the premium economy
experience on a flight from Melbourne to
Dubai.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
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In the Heat of the
Night
The Sun-Herald, 1 February 2015
"I hadn't thought to pack a suit jacket for a
destination where the daily maximum routinely
passes 40 degrees in summer. In these
temperatures, shorts and T-shirts were what I had
in mind. However, it's a jacket I must find, if
I'm to enter the Royal Opera House Muscat for
tonight's performance. Opened in 2011, this
cultural institution was a personal project of
Oman's ruler, Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said..."
Attending a night of noisy
entertainment at the Royal Opera House Muscat,
Oman.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
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High
Life in Oman
The Age & Sydney
Morning Herald,
1 November 2014
"When you peer over the lip of an infinity pool in
our part of the world, you're usually looking at a
scenic jungle or a wide blue ocean. Maybe both.
Not at Jabal Akhdar, 2000 metres above sea level
in the Al Hajar mountains of Oman. Within eyeshot
of pool's edge at the new Alila Jabal Akhdar
resort, opened in May, there's almost no greenery
at all. Instead, I'm looking down into a
spectacular gorge which drops more than 400 metres
between bare rocky slopes..."
Reviewing the impressive new Alila
Jabal Akhdar resort in Oman.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Postcard: Turtles
Hatching in Oman
The Sun-Herald, 7 September 2014
"I'm standing beneath the brightest full moon I've
ever seen, on the easternmost point of the Arabian
Peninsula. The sand beneath my boots is soft and
yielding as I turn to look over the Indian Ocean.
Somewhere over there, a long way away, is
Australia. And in the waters between are green sea
turtles, heading this way to lay their eggs. The
place is Ras al Jinz, on the coast of Oman, one of
the few places in the world that sea turtles visit
all year round..."
Observing turtles in the wild from a
beach in Oman.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
First World
Problems: Luxury Guests' Gripes in the
World's Worst Cities
Fairfax
Traveller, 12 August 2014
"'No man is an island,' wrote the Elizabethan poet
John Donne. But this may not be true of hotels.
Every traveller knows that accommodation can be
either a reflection of the city around it, or a
refuge from its challenges. A hotel can seem like
an embassy from another world – with a carefully
orchestrated serenity aided by decor, light, sound
and even scent. Nowhere is this contrast stronger
than in the world’s 'least liveable' cities..."
Contrasting travellers' online hotel reviews
with cities they're visiting in Africa and
Asia.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
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The
Omani Road Less Travelled
Issimo Magazine,
2 August 2014
"I
have Robert Frost’s famous poem on my
mind as I stand on the ramparts of
Nakhal Fort in Oman. From the
sand-coloured walls of this old
fortification, the edge of the city of
Muscat is on the horizon, a collection
of low pale buildings dotted with
greenery. As inviting as it is, however,
I’m turning my back on the capital and
heading inland with a small group aboard
a 4WD vehicle, toward stark mountains,
vast sandy deserts and deserted
beaches..."
Investigating the
dramatic landscapes of this Middle Eastern
nation.
Available for republication
(print and Web).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Flight
Test: Oman Air
The Age & Sydney
Morning Herald,
7 June
2014
"An early lunch is served an hour into the flight,
with a choice of chicken, seafood or a vegetarian
dish, each served with rice. I snag the last serve
of chicken. It doesn't look like much, but turns
out to be surprisingly tasty. In fact, it's
delicious and thankfully much spicier than you
expect airline food to be, which I attribute to
the Thai catering staff at our point of origin..."
Reviewing the economy class experience
aboard the Middle Eastern airline.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
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A
Line in the Sand
The Sunday Age, 5 January 2014
"I'm sitting inside a Bedouin tent as the pestle
strikes the metal mortar, making it ring. The man
in traditional robe and headdress crushing roasted
coffee beans by an open hearth is Abu Khilim, and
the ringing sound tells his neighbours it's coffee
time. It's a tradition practised for generations
in Wadi Feynan, a dry rocky valley within Jordan's
Dana Biosphere Reserve. There are goats bleating
outside the tent, and it feels like we're lost in
the wilderness..."
Detailing an unconventional
environmentally-friendly hotel in the desert
of Jordan.
[Read
the full article here]
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The
Rum Run
The Sunday Age, 13 October 2013
"They may have swapped camels for jeeps, but our
drivers don't believe in keeping things tame. As
we tear across the desert in convoy, with some
passengers perched on seating on the vehicles'
open trays, they zigzag from one sandy track to
another. Both speed and excitement builds, as new
vistas open up around us. Strangely, these vast
rocky mounds seem familiar, and then I realise why
- I'm being incongruously reminded of the
backdrops of classic Hollywood westerns..."
Tearing through the breathtaking desert
landscape of Wadi Rum, Jordan.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Between Rocks and a Holy Place
The Age, 20 April 2013
"Like Moses, I'm standing atop Mount Nebo, hoping
for a glimpse of the Promised Land. Though he
never reached it, at least the prophet had good
viewing weather: according to the Bible, he saw
'the whole land... as far as the Mediterranean
Sea'. From the lookout, all I can see are dry,
stony hills and a dusty horizon. So I step inside
the adjacent museum, an attractive structure of
rough stone walls, next to a church built around
the remains of a 6th-century Byzantine basilica..."
Musing on the intersection of art and
archaeology in Madaba, Jordan.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Escape for Artists in Morocco
Retreat
The Age, 22 May 2012
"While
popular uprisings have shaken the Middle
East over the past year, the relatively
unaffected North African kingdom of
Morocco has remained a destination for
Western travellers. It's in this
country's remote desert hinterland that
Melbourne woman Karen Hadfield has
established an artists' retreat, within
the village of Tissardmine near the
Algerian border..."
Interviewing the
creator of a remote artists' retreat in
Saharan Morocco.
Available for republication
(print only) |
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Petra: Attractions Carved
in Stone
Arabia
Travel, February 2006
"There
is noise from the horses and people, but
also beauty: strains of reds and purples
running through the walls above and
around you. You walk on, tiring, then
suddenly there is a glimpse of something
different. You turn the final corner to
see the graceful lines of the Khazneh -
the Treasury - carved out of the
rockface dead ahead. In the morning sun
the facade glows a subtle reddish brown.
It's a stunning sight..."
The
secrets of stunning Petra, Jordan, an
ancient city carved out of the desert
rock.
Available
for republication (print and Web).
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Exploring the High Road to
Damascus
The
Canberra Times, 7 April 1996
"Aleppo
(Halab to the locals) has all the air of
intrigue appropriate to the Arab world's
northernmost city. Claimed to be the
oldest settlement in the world, it has
been part of every empire in the Middle
East. Egyptians, Assyrians,
Persians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Turks
and French have all ruled here at one
time or other, creating layers of
history."
The
little known but spectacular attractions
of Syria.
Available
for republication (print and Web).
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More
travel writing:
Australia
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| Americas
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Travel: Africa
& the Middle East
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I'm a
member of the Australian Society of Travel
Writers. This page contains examples
of my travel writing, organised by
location. Each entry includes a sample
paragraph, and indications of available rights.
I also have a selection of
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available, depicting a variety of
international locations.
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