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Just the ticket: The best new
rail journeys around the world
Traveller, 7 September 2024
"Europe’s renewed affair with long-distance train
routes continues apace, and this time the
destinations being linked are popular big cities:
Paris and Berlin. It was in December last year
that the French and German capitals were
connected, with great acclaim, by sleeper train
for the first time in nine years. The next step
will be the start of direct high-speed daytime
services between the two cities..."
Describing ten upcoming developments in
rail travel across Europe, North America,
Asia and Australia.
[Read
the full article here]
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Seize the day (five items)
Paradise, July-September 2024
"The Hong Kong Food tour takes a maximum of nine
tour members on a taste-filled adventure beginning
in the Sheung Wan district of Hong Kong Island,
also covering elements of local culture that
illuminate the food scene. Over four hours in
Sheung Wan, Central and Wan Chai, the tour group
enjoys a dim sum breakfast at a restaurant, that
still serves its dishes via trolley service and
wonton noodles at a shop dating back to the 1960s
and recommended by the famous Michelin restaurant
guide..."
Describing five fascinating walking
tours in Sydney, Brisbane, Cairns, Singapore
and Hong Kong.
[Read
the full
article here] |
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Spectacular scenery is just a
part of these five new stylish rail journeys
Traveller, 26 May 2024
"When a new tourist train is devised, its makers
tend to reach for Victorian-era designs from the
golden age of railways. Not so the designers of
Japan’s Tobu Railway, who have crafted a beautiful
train with a unique style: the Spacia X.
Running between Tokyo’s Asakusa Station and the
Nikko region with its World Heritage-listed sites
and popular thermal baths, this train’s sleekly
curving carriages have a futuristic vibe, but it’s
more complex than that..."
Describing the highlights of five new
or improved trains, operating in Italy,
Australia, Norway, Japan, and Laos.
[Read the full
article here]
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Parting is such sweet sorrow
Traveller, 27 April 2024
"In the first week of the New Year I picked up a
brand-new passport. Almost ten years had passed in
the company of my old one, and it was time to
renew. But as I delighted in the crisp,
unblemished potential of my new passport, I felt
an unexpected fondness for its slightly worn
predecessor. We’d been through a lot together over
the previous decade, and the assortment of stamps
spread through its pages recalled the most
memorable border crossings..."
Discussing the fond memories prompted
by an expired passport, of travels in
Ukraine, Japan, Malaysia, South Africa,
Liechtenstein, and Fiji.
[Read the full
article here]
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Ditch the checked bag: How to
pack for a holiday bringing only carry-on
Traveller, 11 May 2023
"Lean in close, for I’m going make a confession:
I, too, used to check luggage into an aircraft’s
hold. Phew, that’s a weight off. But it was a long
time ago, almost in the previous century. I
remember clearly the last time I checked in a
suitcase for a long-haul flight, and the lightbulb
moment when I realised it had been a mistake.
Standing on a steep hill leading up from a bus
stop in the Italian city of Siena in 2001, wearing
a backpack while carrying a suitcase on a hot
humid day, I thought 'There must be a better way
than this.' And so there was..."
Explaining my system of light packing,
with reference to travel experiences in
Italy and Japan.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Budget
Airlines and COVID-19: It's Time for
Cheap Air Fares to Die
Traveller, 26 October 2020
"Since travel shut down around March, I've been
gobsmacked to see people pay good money to either
take a joy flight to nowhere, or – even worse – to
dine on a plane that's not leaving the tarmac.
When I expressed this amazement on social media,
many agreed that flying was the absolute worst
part of travel, and the one good thing about
COVID-19 lockdown was not having to go near an
airport..."
Arguing for an end to cheap fares,
in order to combat climate change and overtourism
(with a reference to an Asian attraction).
[Read the
full article here] |
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A Dream of Trains
The New Daily, 3 June 2020
"Locked down in my apartment in Melbourne’s CBD, I
dreamt of trains. For the past decade I’ve
increasingly written about rail travel, drawn more
and more into a love of trains. It doesn’t matter
what trains they are – luxury 'rail cruises' are
impressive, but so to me is a berth in a weathered
old-school sleeper car or a seat on any intercity
train..."
Discussing the delights of rail travel,
with examples - including
train journeys in Asia.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Fukuoka:
The Japanese City You’ve Been Missing
Out On
Escape, 6 February 2020
"'This was the first international city in Japan,'
says my guide Mr Shinohara, referring to Fukuoka’s
medieval trade with China and Korea. As the city’s
harbour faces the Korea Strait, beyond which lies
all of Asia, that’s easy to understand. What’s
more difficult to comprehend is why Fukuoka is so
little-known to western travellers. As Japan’s
sixth-largest city and an ancient port, Fukuoka
has much to offer..."
Exploring the food and cultural
attractions of Fukuoka, Japan.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Why
Don't Hotels Let You Open Your Room's
Windows?
Traveller, 19 December 2019
"I hate staying in hotels where the windows don't
open. If I have to leave the air-conditioning on
for airflow, I end up feeling dehydrated, as if
suffering from a hangover. If I leave the air-con
off I feel suffocated, and develop a different
kind of headache. Either way it's awful. Aren't
hotels supposed to be a 'home away from home'?
What home has windows that can't be opened? Why do
they do it?"
Having a rant about hotel room
windows which can't be opened, referencing hotels
in Hong Kong and the UK.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Into the DMZ
Active Retirees, October 2019
"My first glimpse of North Korea comes on a
beautiful day, as I gaze across a broad river. It
looks like peaceful farming country over there.
Then I hear the unmistakeable sound of gunfire
below us. I’m suddenly alert to the perils of this
place, on the ceasefire line of a war that never
officially ended. 'No problem,' says our guide.
'It’s just South Korean soldiers training. Nothing
to worry about.' Well, maybe. But it’s a timely
reminder of the unresolved tension between the
Koreas..."
Joining a tour from Seoul to the
demilitarised zone on the border of North and
South Korea.
[Subscribe
to read the full
article here] |
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Hot
Food List 2019
Traveller, 10 August 2019
"Ramen is a serious business in Japan, and even
more so in the outlets of Ichiran. On entering,
the diner orders a serve of Fukuoka's famous
Hakata ramen from a vending machine, tailoring the
ingredients. Then the noodle dish with its
slow-cooked pork broth is delivered from behind a
screen to your seat in a solo alcove. Sit, slurp,
and contemplate the infinite as you enjoy the
flavour..."
Detailing three food-related
experiences in Japan, South Korea and
Liechtenstein (among those of various writers).
[Read the
full article here] |
|
By
Reservation Only: Seoul's Museum of
Century-old Wooden Treasures
Traveller, 31 July 2019
"Seoul is a UNESCO Creative City of Design, and
has plenty of blingy buildings to prove it. An
exhibition of furniture sounds dowdy by
comparison, and the Korea Furniture Museum plays
hard to get. Perched in a residential area in the
hilly north of the city, it only allows access via
prior reservation on a guided tour, and there are
only four English-language tours a day. I'm
getting the message it doesn't accept any old
riff-raff within the premises; a tourist trap this
is not..."
Discovering a historic furniture
collection in Seoul, South Korea.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Model
Citizens in a Model City
Traveller, 30 March 2019
"From where I'm standing, I can see the Empire
State Building looming over the Statue of Liberty.
On the other side of the harbour rises the
unmistakeable red form of the Tokyo Tower, and in
the distance I can see Taiwan's lofty Taipei 101
building. I'm not having delusions, and I'm not
dreaming, though Tobu World Square does have
dreamlike qualities. This theme park in the Nikko
region north of Tokyo is a fine example of the
Japanese obsession with detail..."
Enjoying the distinctive
attractions of the Nikko region of Japan.
[Read the
full article here] |
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A Magic Bullet to
Busan
Traveller, 7 March 2019
"As I enter Seoul Station, I have half an eye out
for zombies. A week before flying to the South
Korean capital I watched Train to Busan,
the excellent 2016 movie about a train journey
overtaken by a plague of the undead. It managed to
both evoke horror, and depict Korail's high-speed
rail network in a good light. In the midst of the
action the rail company's staff were unfailingly
cool under pressure (except when turned into
zombies themselves, of course)..."
Catching high-speed trains from
Seoul to Busan, South Korea.
[Read the
full article here] |
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A Seriously
Multicultural Range of Cuisines
Traveller, 19 February 2019
"A guitarist strums in a corner of the restaurant,
singing Portuguese folk songs. At a table near
him, a waiter is creating a spectacle as she
flambés a dish over a gas stove. On the walls hang
paintings depicting traditional village scenes,
beneath colourful ceramic ornaments and a model
boat. This eatery couldn't be more Portuguese if
it tried – but we're not in Portugal. This is
Taipa Village in the autonomous Chinese territory
of Macau, and the restaurant is called Antonio..."
Exploring the towns of Taipa and
Coloane in a quieter part of Macau, China.
[Read the
full article here] |
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Full
Steam Ahead
Paradise,
January-February 2019
"To
a train fan there’s nothing more
exciting than the hiss of a steam
locomotive, and the peal of its whistle.
Even more so when it’s about to bear you
through a picturesque area of Japan. I’m
about to board the SL Taiju, a
loco which worked on the northern island
of Hokkaido from 1941 to 1974. Recently
granted a second life in the Nikko
region north of Tokyo, it runs 35-minute
trips between the hot springs town of
Kinugawa Onsen and Shimo-Imaichi..."
Exploring the Nikko
region of Japan for the inflight magazine of
Air Niugini.
[Read
the full article here] |
|
Get Served by
Robots, and Look into the Future
Escape, 29 December 2018
"Who would you rather check in to your hotel with?
A robot or a velociraptor? And would the choice be
easier if the toothy dinosaur was wearing a
pillbox hat? That’s the dilemma which confronts me
at the Henn-na Hotel, at Huis Ten Bosch near
Nagasaki. Huis Ten Bosch’s un-Japanese name can be
explained by the fact that it’s a theme park
containing a perfect replica of a 17th century
Dutch town. But more of that strangeness later..."
Checking into a curious robot-run
hotel at a Dutch theme park near Nagasaki, Japan.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Best Moments in
Travel for 2018
(item re the Golden Gai district, Tokyo)
Traveller, 22 December 2018
"I wander along the maze of alleys that comprises
Tokyo's Golden Gai district, an atmospheric
enclave of tiny bars illuminated by gaudy signs.
My goal is Deathmatch in Hell, a heavy metal
themed bar at the far end. Perched on a stool, I
marvel at the blood red interior, decorated with
horror movie posters, dolls of the Blues Brothers,
a Star Wars stormtrooper, and a big golden
skull..."
One item about Tokyo, Japan, in a
list of special moments experienced by various
travel writers.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
How to Get into Hot
Water in South Korea
Traveller, 3 December 2018
"There's nothing delicate about a body scrub at a
jjimjilbang, the South Korean institution which is
a cross between a traditional bath house and a
Western-style spa. Though it may sound like a spot
of pampering, in practice a scrub is a vigorous
(and occasionally painful) procedure – the masseur
turns me one way then the other, scraping me down
ruthlessly with a roughened cloth. This is
followed by a forceful shoulder massage. Nothing
about this experience is elegant, but it gets the
job done..."
Soaking in the spa culture of Seoul
and Busan, South Korea.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Airline
Review: Asiana Airlines Business
Traveller, 2 November 2018
"There's a sign on the bulkhead designating this
as 'Business Smartium Class', which denotes this
style of Asiana business seat: each a small
cubicle neatly interlocked with those in front and
behind. They alternate between seats opening
directly onto the aisle, and those with a shelf
between seat and aisle. I've deliberately chosen
one of the latter on the right hand side of the
plane, as I like the cosy contained space it
creates, with an element of privacy..."
Reviewing the Business Class experience
on a flight from Sydney to Seoul, South
Korea.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Lonely Planet:
Amazing Train Journeys
(section on Eastern & Oriental Express)
October 2018
"Tracing a route between the busy cities of
Bangkok and Singapore, the Eastern &
Oriental Express is an appealing way to
sample the sights of South-east Asia. Passengers
experience a little of everything on the two to
three-night journey: luxurious comfort within
finely-crafted décor; quality dining with a choice
of Asian and European dishes; beautiful scenery as
the tropical landscape slips past the train
windows; and cultural knowledge..."
Describing a luxurious way to
travel between Bangkok and Singapore by rail.
[Find the
book here] |
|
Ten Australian Cafes
Around the World
Traveller, 18 October 2018
"Sydney chef Bill Granger's name adorns a chain of
cafes across Japan, with four in the capital. The
branch on the upmarket Omotesando shopping strip
resembles an Aussie cafe lofted into the sky, with
loads of natural light, pine tables and
sand-coloured tiles. It's a busy space full of
Tokyo-ites enjoying sweetcorn fritters, ricotta
hotcakes, and the Fresh Aussie, featuring gravlax
and poached eggs..."
Detailing Aussie-style cafes in
locations around the globe, including Japan,
China, Singapore and South Korea.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Gone
Shopping
Paradise,
September-October 2018
"'I
use real pearl because it’s not just for
one season. Good things last longer.'
Designer Coney Ko is talking about the
jewellery she creates in her compact
Hong Kong shop Coney & Co, but she
could equally be referring to the design
hub it’s housed within: PMQ. The name of
this creative complex has been shortened
from its original title: Police Married
Quarters. Constructed in 1951 under
British administration, it's now part of
the arty SoHo district..."
Visiting a Hong Kong
design hub for the inflight magazine of Air
Niugini.
[Read
the full article here] |
|
Enter
the (Flying) Dragon
roundtheworldflights.com,
28 February 2018
"The first time I flew out of Hong Kong
International Airport (HKG), I was lucky enough
to have access to the Cathay Pacific lounge
known as The Pier. Walking along its length,
from room to room, feels like taking a stroll
through the opening shot of an arthouse movie.
There’s a dedicated noodle room, a tea room,
bars and relaxation rooms, and at the very end
there’s a dimly-lit space dotted with comfy
reclined chairs that are more like beds..."
Detailing the
highlights of Hong Kong International
Airport, China.
[Read
the full article
here]
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|
I Travelled the
World Without (Much) Cash
The Age &
Sydney Morning Herald,
31 January 2018
"It was at Vancouver's Museum of Anthropology that
I finally had to stump up some cash. Since
arriving in the Canadian city two days before, I'd
been paying for everything via my phone using
Apple Pay. It had been such a successful strategy
that I still had the C$100 I'd arrived with in
cash. Now, however, I needed to hire a locker
before I enjoyed the institution's spectacular
collection of First Nations totem poles. To do
that, I had to break a note and put a Canadian
quarter into the slot..."
Trying to pay for everything using
contactless payment methods in Hong Kong, Canada,
the USA & the UK.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Airline
Review: Cathay Pacific Premium Economy
Traveller, 17 November 2017
"The first thing I notice is that this is a
snugger premium economy than others I've flown. As
there are eight seats across in this class
(compared to nine down the back of the plane), my
seat is wider than those in economy but only by a
small amount. In fact, the fixed armrests mean
that the space available for my hips is similar to
that in economy. Having said that, I'm definitely
more comfortable than the folks in the cheap
seats..."
Reviewing the Premium Economy
experience on a flight from Melbourne to
Hong Kong.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Hong
Kong's New Hotspot
Paradise,
July-August 2017
"Hong
Kong’s new South Island MTR line opened
at the end of last year, reaching Wong
Chuk Hang. Not a moment too soon for the
inquisitive traveller, as the former
industrial district has been gradually
transforming into a fascinating hotspot
of art, design and food. In the 20th
century this was an area crammed with
numerous factories. The empty space
became a playground for creative types.
As a result there’s still a measure of
grit, but also plenty of cutting-edge
venues to explore..."
Exploring a cool Hong
Kong 'hood for the inflight magazine of Air
Niugini.
[Read
the full article here] |
|
Airline
Review: Cathay Pacific Economy
Traveller, 15 May 2017
"This is a brand-new aircraft which only recently
started on the Melbourne-Hong Kong run, so all the
fixtures and fittings are in top condition. Though
seat width is snug, the leg room is surprisingly
generous in economy - I can extend my legs beneath
the seat in front without my knees coming close to
bumping the seat pocket..."
Reviewing economy class on an Airbus
A350 flight from Melbourne to Hong Kong.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Vegetarian
Food in Hong Kong
Traveller, 27 March 2017
"'Every culture has its own vegetarian food,' says
Peggy Chan. Peggy's restaurant, Grassroots Pantry,
is the first stop on my mission in Hong Kong. I'm
not in the city to defeat rogue magicians (like Dr
Strange) or battle gangsters (in Jackie Chan
style), nor even to tackle an assassin with a
golden gun (a la James Bond). No, my
self-appointed task is to eat vegetarian and well
for a whole day, in the restaurants of this
food-mad city. In a place which is famous for its
meaty dishes, such as snake soup, is this even
possible?"
Eating vegetarian dishes in restaurants
throughout Hong Kong, China.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Singapore
Art Deco Walking Tour
Traveller, 21 October 2016
"'It's not technically a fire escape, it's a
boyfriend escape,' says Lip Sin, pointing to the
stairs on an apartment building in Tiong Bahru. 'A
lot of rich businessmen housed their mistresses
here.' It seems Singapore is not the buttoned-up
puritanical state it's often depicted as; or at
least it wasn't back in the 1930s. That's when
this residential neighbourhood was built on a
reclaimed swamp, with graceful art deco buildings
replacing squatters' huts and rutted, muddy
roads..."
Taking a free walking tour of the
attractive art deco district of Tiong Bahru, Singapore.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Top
10: Comedy Clubs Around the World
Traveller, 7 October 2016
"The supposedly uptight island state may not seem
an obvious stop on the laughter circuit, but since
2010 this weekly comedy night founded by Pakistani
stand-up comedian Umar Rana has featured upcoming
locals to great success. Masala alumni have gone
on to success in international tours, so this is
the place to spot Asian comic talents on the
rise..."
Listing great comedy venues in the USA, Canada,
UK, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, South
Africa and Singapore.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Going
Light
Paradise,
May-June 2016
"Are
you up for a travel challenge? Here it
is: could you travel anywhere in the
world, taking only cabin luggage with
you? It may sound impossible, but it
isn’t. For years, I’ve been honing my
approach to packing light, to the point
where I only ever take a single bag. The
upside? I zip through airports, often
bypassing the check-in desks entirely if
the airline offers mobile check-in. When
I leave the flight at the end of the
trip, I can walk straight out of the
airport..."
Explaining how to pack
light, including for a business trip to
Singapore.
Available for republication
(print and Web).
Images
available.
[Read
the full article here] |
|
Chants Encounter
Issimo Magazine,
28
March 2016
"The
most memorable moment of my Korean
temple stay involves a giant drum. We’ve
been led to an open-sided pavilion
supported by intricately painted green
pillars, to witness an ancient
tradition. Standing in front of a vast
drum, a robed Buddhist monk beats its
surface with precision, producing a
rhythmic beat. My eye, however, is
caught by the monk standing behind him,
recording the performance on a tablet
computer..."
Staying overnight at
an ancient Buddhist temple in South Korea.
Available for republication
(print and Web).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Cats
vs Dogs in Seoul's Hippest Neighbourhood
Traveller, 16 February 2016
"Are you a cat person or a dog person? For many
years, that was a question that many inhabitants
of East Asia's most densely populated cities
couldn't answer. Then, in 1998, the world's first
cat café opened in Taiwan. The concept spread to
Japan, where it became a craze, then onward to the
rest of the world. Seoul was no exception. But in
the South Korean capital I'm faced with an
additional option: a dog café..."
Investigating a cat cafe and a dog cafe
in the Hongdae district of Seoul, South
Korea.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Next
Stop: Nature
The Sun-Herald, 31 January 2016
"On a warm Friday afternoon, my Singaporean friend
Walter Lim and I walk along a broad green path
which once echoed to the clatter of carriages. Now
the tracks are gone, and in its place is the Rail
Corridor – a walking trail lined by tropical
foliage. With the rails removed, what remains is a
24-kilometre green corridor. For now, at least,
it's a basic walking trail, and we're taking the
opportunity to appreciate its undeveloped
simplicity..."
Strolling along an abandoned rail
corridor, now a walking trail in Singapore.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Airline
Review: Qantas Economy
Traveller, 7 January 2016
"I've selected lunch using Qantas' Select on Q-Eat
service, which enables passengers to order online
before boarding. It's a big plus, guaranteeing
you'll receive your meal choice; you can even see
an image before locking it in. I've gone for the
vegie option, which on this flight is stir-fried
tofu with black funghi, rice noodles and soy
beans..."
Reviewing the economy experience on a
flight from Melbourne to Singapore.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
|
The 60
Best Travel Finds of 2015
(five items by me)
The Sun-Herald, 27 December 2015
"For over a century, drinkers at the luxurious
Raffles Hotel in Singapore have shivered over the
story of the tiger who was discovered beneath the
hotel's billiard room in 1902. Now they have
something with which to toast the terrifying
memory: The Stray Tiger. Part of the hotel's
Timeline series of cocktails based on historic
events, it's a $S27 wild combination of white rum,
Cointreau, vermouth, lime juice, absinthe and
lemongrass foam. Chin chin!"
I detail five of 60 interesting
attractions, in Los Angeles, Munich,
Singapore and Melbourne.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Airline
Review: Jetstar Asia Economy
Traveller, 20 December 2015
"'Would you like us to sing a song for you?' asks
a flight attendant jokingly when I inquire about
the entertainment options. This is one of those
rare flights where the passengers provide their
own amusement, mostly in the form of phones and
tablets. I while away the time with an ebook..."
Reviewing the economy experience on a
flight from Singapore to Bangkok.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Express Yourself
The Sun-Herald, 26 July 2015
"It didn't take long for Sinatra to show up. I may
be sitting in the beautifully appointed piano bar
aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express, a
luxury train rattling along the rails of Thailand,
but New York, New York is being crooned by
the Singaporean pianist. Seated near him is a
cluster of passengers, still in suits and finery
from dinner, singing self-consciously under our
breath while clutching drinks. I'll have to give
that song a more determined effort later. For the
moment, however, there is plenty to explore..."
Riding the rails from Bangkok to Singapore aboard
a luxury train.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Only in Seoul
Paradise, July 2015
"Mostly concrete, glass and steel – and just a
little bit boring. That’s how many people think of
Seoul, dismissing the South Korean capital as
lacking texture and personality. They are,
however, wrong. Though Seoul remains the centre of
the nation’s busy economy, it also contains many
quirky corners and distinctive attractions. Here
are some highlights..."
Examining
the South Korean capital's quirks for the
inflight magazine of Air Niugini.
Available
for republication (print and Web).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Singapore's
Coffee Revolution
The Sunday Age, 31 May 2015
"'Everyone loves to go out drinking coffee and
having brunch. Brunch is like a sport here; on a
Sunday we have queues down the road.' If this
sounds familiar, it is – and it isn't. For cafe
owner Harry Grover isn't talking about the
brunching multitudes of Melbourne or Sydney. As we
sit within Common Man Coffee Roasters, he's
explaining how Australia's indie coffee scene has
caught on in Singapore. 'It's exploded here, and a
lot of that came from Aussie influence...'"
Investigating the coffee scene in
Singapore.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Edgy
Art Captivates Asia
The Age, 2 May 2015
"'When I was at school I didn't have the option of
art history,' says Audrey Yeo, owner of Singapore
contemporary art gallery Yeo Workshop. 'So for my
generation, it's something we're all catching up
on very quickly. We love it, obviously, and the
Singaporean public is hungry for it, but it's not
something that I had the option to do when I was a
kid.' Yeo's experience encapsulates the rapidly
growing popularity of contemporary art in East and
South-East Asia..."
Surveying the contemporary art scene in
Singapore.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Flight
Test: Malaysia Airlines Economy
Traveller (The Age
& Sydney Morning Herald),
21 March
2015
"As you expect from a long-haul economy class
seat, 38D seems very snug when the armrests are
down, and there isn't a lot of room for my long
legs. However, the flight is far from full and
I've scored an entire empty row of four seats –
the poor man's lie-flat bed! Up go the armrests
and I have plenty of space to spread out. Pity it
isn't a night flight, though in the middle of the
flight I do stretch out full-length for a while
and have a snooze..."
Reviewing the economy experience on a
flight from Kuala Lumpur to Melbourne.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Converts' Guide:
Long-Distance Train Travel
The Sun-Herald, 15 March 2015
"There are many types of long-distance trains,
from regularly scheduled services to those that
resemble luxury cruise liners. What they have in
common is ever-changing scenery. A train is a
unique mode of transport, akin to a small town on
wheels; always in contact with the world outside,
but also slightly separate. It's difficult to get
bored as the entire planet passes by your window:
people, farms, forests, dramatic landscapes, and
the normally hidden backyards of vibrant cities..."
Promoting the benefits of
long-distance rail travel in one of a set of
travel essays; including trains travelling through
Asia.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Metro
Marvels (One
item authored by me)
The Age & Sydney
Morning Herald,
29 November 2014
"South Korea's capital has thrown off its
over-earnest stereotype to reveal a city with a
sense of style and fun. Its identity as a UNESCO
City of Design was underlined in 2014 with the
opening of the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a
spectacular building resembling a vast silver
spaceship. Containing a museum, a design market
and restaurants on the site of a former baseball
park and historic fort, it's a compelling
destination for both locals and visitors..."
One item covering
Seoul, South Korea, as part of a
selection of top
cities to visit in 2015.
My items
available for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Best
Literary Walking Tours
Lonely Planet's Best in Travel 2015,
October
2014
"There’s no better way to pay tribute to
your favourite author or characters than to
follow in their footsteps via these
entertaining tours..."
Listing ten distinctive literary walking
tours in locales across the world, including
the UK, USA, Sweden, Ireland, France,
Romania, China and Australia.
This
book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.
Not
available for republication.
[Read
the full article
here]
|
|
First World
Problems: Luxury Guests' Gripes in the
World's Worst Cities
Fairfax
Traveller, 12 August 2014
"'No man is an island,' wrote the Elizabethan poet
John Donne. But this may not be true of hotels.
Every traveller knows that accommodation can be
either a reflection of the city around it, or a
refuge from its challenges. A hotel can seem like
an embassy from another world – with a carefully
orchestrated serenity aided by decor, light, sound
and even scent. Nowhere is this contrast stronger
than in the world’s 'least liveable' cities..."
Contrasting travellers' online
hotel reviews
with cities they're visiting in Africa and
Asia.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Seoul:
Food & Culture
Serendib, August 2014
"If I've learned one thing on my first day in
Seoul, it's this - never order topokki just for
one. This popular South Korean dish is undoubtedly
delicious. A big stew of rice cakes, fish cakes,
boiled eggs, chilli sauce, noodles and vegetables,
it's been bubbling away at the stove on my table
for several minutes. However, it's impossible for
me to finish more than half the amount in the
cooking bowl..."
Exploring the vibrant food and cultural
attractions of the South Korean capital.
Not
available for republication.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Cafes
of Hongdae
Get Up & Go,
Winter
2014
"Seoul
is both a busy commercial centre and a
UNESCO City of Design. But look beyond
the glass and steel towers at its
centre, and you’ll find neighbourhoods
of winding alleyways and human-scale
buildings, where the South Korean
capital comes alive. One of the most
vibrant districts is Hongdae, centred on
Hongik University and other nearby
institutions devoted to art and design.
It’s a happening area of dining, live
music and fashion..."
Discovering
the quirky cafes of this arty
district of Seoul, South Korea.
Available for republication
(print and Web).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here]
|
|
Fifty
Things We Love About Travel Right Now (Five items authored by me)
The Age & Sydney
Morning Herald,
28 June
2014
"It's always been easy to figure out how to use
public transport in a foreign city - as long as it
ran on rails. Train and tram routes were easy to
decipher, but local buses remained an impenetrable
mystery. As more and more cities around the world
make their transport data available to Google
Maps, however, that puzzle has largely been
solved. Tap in a query about getting from A to B,
and the app will tell you which buses to catch and
where to transfer. It opens up a whole new way of
getting around in the company of locals..."
Five items of fifty, covering Los
Angeles, Seoul, Ballarat, and useful travel
technology.
My items
available for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Escape
the Concrete Jungle: Pockets of the Past
in Modern Seoul
www.lonelyplanet.com, 26 June 2014
"Concrete. Glass. Steel. That’s the common
perception of Seoul. And when you consider the
damage done to the city during the Korean War,
followed by its rapid industrialisation, it’s not
surprising that the first thing you notice about
the South Korean capital is its modernity. But
believe it or not, there’s more to Seoul than
shiny corporate towers. Here and there, pockets of
its 2000-year-old past are tucked between 21st
century structures..."
Detailing the quieter nooks and
crannies of the South Korean capital.
Not
available for republication.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Design
Landmark Bends the Rules
The Age, 21 June 2014
"'Zaha Hadid is famous for her irregularly shaped
buildings,' says Helen, my South Korean guide to
Seoul’s new Dongdaemun Design Plaza. 'She likes to
emancipate buildings from right angles and
T-squares.' She certainly does. As I gaze up at
the new centrepiece of this UNESCO City of Design,
there’s not an angle to be seen in the British
architect’s extraordinary creation. The vast lip
of the building curves above us, like a slowly
breaking wave or a strange metallic tongue..."
Exploring a stunning new design
precinct in Seoul, South Korea.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Flight
Test: Cathay Pacific
The Age & Sydney
Morning Herald,
14 June
2014
"On this afternoon flight, drinks are served after
departure and it's a gin and tonic (with Bombay
Sapphire, naturally) for me, thanks. For my late
lunch starter I choose the Iberico ham with smoked
paprika chickpeas, followed by a main of lamb
korma with turmeric rice and vegetable jalfrezi.
The entree is presented more attractively than the
main (the latter looks much like any airline meal,
though in a ceramic dish), but both are
flavoursome..."
Reviewing the business class experience
aboard the Hong Kong-based airline.
Available
for republication (print only).
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Bare Necessities
The Sun-Herald, 8 June 2014
"I know there's compulsory nudity involved, but
I'm not sure when it begins. Having entered the
men-only fifth floor of the Dragon Hill Spa, I've
followed a couple of locals into a locker area.
Thank god for smartphones - I pretend to be
checking mine while waiting to see what my
unwitting companions do next. As I inspect
imaginary text messages, they strip off
completely, then wander back to the foyer. OK.
When in Rome... or Seoul. I strip, then wander
cautiously through the foyer..."
Exploring the world of the traditional
Korean bathhouse in Seoul, South Korea.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Korean
Food On Foot
The Sunday Age, 18 May 2014
"It's when tour guide Christina starts filling
shot glasses, then stacking them inside a larger
glass, that I realise this may not be your average
food walking tour. We're sitting in an alleyway,
surrounded by Seoul office workers having a bite
after work, and our guide is constructing a local
aperitif known as 'sweet after bitter'. A shot
glass of cola is topped by a shot glass of the
Korean liquor soju, then the two are suspended
within a glass of local beer. Then it's bottoms
up..."
Joining a lively walking food tour in
the capital of South Korea.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Sin
Central
The Sunday Age, 2 June 2013
"The White Temple is a remarkable modern
interpretation of the traditional Buddhist temple.
The vision of artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, it's
a unique blend of classic elements and pop
culture. The main building is spectacular.
Bristling with mirrored ridges, it's a blinding
vision in white. I cross a sea of sinners' hands
thrusting up towards the bridge, past more dynamic
figures, and then I'm in the tranquil interior,
with its statue of Buddha..."
Joining a fascinating new 'Green Route'
tour across northern Thailand.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
A
Peculiar Play Land
International
Traveller, May 2013
"Watched over by these surreal inhabitants,
there’s something other-worldly and fairy-tale
about the building – as if the witch in the
Hansel and Gretel tale had fancied a warmer
climate, and set up shop in Thailand. I half
expect a wizened old lady beckoning me in with a
gnarled finger, suggesting I take a bite of the
marzipan architecture on the way. Inside,
however, it’s simply delightful. Though a
million toys is probably an exaggeration, there
must be thousands of them within these walls..."
Journeying into
nostalgia at a toy museum in Ayutthaya,
Thailand.
Available
for republication (print and Web).
Images
available.
[Read
the full article
here]
|
|
Beyond
the Taj Mahal: The Other Tombs of Agra
www.lonelyplanet.com, 4 April 2013
"It’s difficult to be alone in India, where people
throng every road and public space. It’s even
harder to be alone in Agra, home to the Taj Mahal.
However, there’s more to the attractions of Agra
than the Taj. For centuries the city was the
capital of the mighty Mughal Empire, whose Muslim
rulers held sway over much of modern-day India and
Pakistan. As a result, the city is littered with
impressive tombs erected by or in memory of its
powerful emperors..."
Visiting tombs beyond the Taj Mahal in
Agra, India.
Not
available for republication.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
A World Full of
Cheap Thrills
The Age
& Sydney Morning Herald,
16 March
2013
"To be an Australian traveller is to be obsessed
by currency exchange rates, and certain cities
have a reputation among Aussies for their
crippling expense. But with the Aussie dollar's
dramatic rise, things must have changed. To test
this theory, I visited Lonely Planet's Melbourne
HQ to thumb through guidebooks used by travellers
ten years ago, comparing prices while factoring in
inflation. What I found should put a smile on
every Australian traveller's face..."
Exploring the effect of the Australian
dollar's rise on attractions in London, New
York, Tokyo and Reykjavik.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
World's Most
Expensive Cities Not So Bad
Fairfax
Traveller, 7 February 2013
"They were bitter, strong, smooth… and extremely
expensive at £18.50 each. In 2008, with the
Australian dollar buying 48 pence, that worked out
to $38.50 per cocktail. Ouch. I consoled myself
that I was doing much better than I would have
five years earlier when the dollar had been buying
only 35p; at that rate, each Vesper would have
cost $52.85. At the other extreme is the exchange
rate of today, currently hovering around 66p.
Assuming the cocktail cost the same in pounds,
that Vesper would now go for $28..."
Examining how the Australian dollar's
rise has made travel cheaper than ten years
ago in London, New York, Tokyo and
Reykjavik.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Enter the Dragon: Exploring
Bangkok’s Chinatown
www.lonelyplanet.com, 30 November 2012
"The dragon, in this case, is Thanon Yaowarat, the
main thoroughfare which threads through Bangkok’s
Chinatown. Its head, say locals, is the Chinatown
Gate at the road’s eastern end. The dragon’s body
then stretches west until it ends with the tip of
its tail dipping into the waters of the Rob Krung
canal. Be aware: this is not a sleepy dragon,
dozing in its cave on top of a mound of treasure.
Yaowarat Road is an active beast, exhibiting
plenty of colour and movement..."
Profiling the alleyways, food and
shopping of the Chinatown district of
Bangkok, Thailand.
Not
available for republication.
[Read the
full article here] |
|
Oddest Food Museums
Lonely Planet's
Best in Travel 2013, October 2012
List of distinctive food museums in locales across
the world (including three in the USA, two in
Germany, two in Japan, one in Hungary, one in
Belgium, and one in South Korea).
This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.
|
|
Thai Toy Story
The Sunday Age, 3 June 2012
"I have an idea for the
next Terminator movie: a cohort of tin
robots marches across the earth, its
colourful leaders backed by dozens of
troops arrayed in black armour, with
bulging red eyes and little looped
antennas on their heads. At least,
that’s what I see when I look into one
of the many glass cases in the Million
Toy Museum in Ayutthaya, Thailand..."
Exploring a vast and delightful
museum of toys in historic Ayutthaya, Thailand.
Available for republication (print only).
Images
available. |
|
Zapiekanka & Daulat Ki
Chaat
Lonely Planet: The World's Best Street
Food,
March
2012
I provide history,
descriptions and recipes for two street food
treats - Zapiekanka from Poland and Daulat
Ki Chaat from India.
This
book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.
Not
available for republication.
|
|
The Hot Seat
The Sunday Age, 1 January 2012
"The
suburbs of Delhi, India seem like a strange
place to find the throne of King Louis XIII of
France. Though it’s not a throne in the strict
sense; it’s a replica of a grand combination of
chair and toilet that the monarch had made in
the 17th century. Ever a busy man,
the monarch used it to attend to his courtiers
and, er, other royal business at the same time..."
Making a visit to the Sulabh
International Museum of Toilets in Delhi, India.
Available for republication (print only).
Images
available. |
|
Beachside Bliss
Air Mail, Summer 2011
(Air Australia inflight
magazine)
"'All the world’s a
stage,' wrote William Shakespeare, but he
might as well have said 'All the world’s a
beach.' Through Asia, Australia and the
Pacific there are beaches of every type,
hosting every attraction. Whether you’re
after a rest, a meal, a party or a spot of
retail action, there’s a sandy shore out
there for you. Here’s a selection of the
best..."
Detailing a number of
fine beaches, including two each in Bali
and Phuket.
Available
for republication (print and Web).
Images
available.
|
|
Fit for the King
Medical Observer, 2
September 2011
"When the hotel
opened as the Railway Hotel in the 1920s,
it attracted Bangkok’s well-to-do to what
had previously been an unexceptional
fishing village. Impressed with the new
seaside resort and the contrast it
provided with the busy capital, King
Prajadhipok ordered the construction of a
palace here, aptly named Wang Klai Kang
Won ('Far from Worries')."
Visiting a beach
resort town long favoured by the royal
family of Thailand.
|
|
Fangtastic! The World’s Best
Vampire-spotting Locations
www.lonelyplanet.com, 9 August 2011
Revealing several ways of encountering
vampires in places around the globe
(including locations in Romania, the UK,
France, the USA, Costa Rica and Indonesia).
Not available for
republication.
[Read
the
full article
here] |
|
And for You, Sir?
The Sunday Age, 12 June 2011
"Within
the grand art deco Imperial Hotel is
this opulent fever-dream of the British
Empire. It’s dominated by a vast
horseshoe-shaped timber bar covered by a
glass canopy bearing art nouveau
designs. Sepia photographs of maharajahs
adorn pillars, and along one wall is a
large painting of an idealised scene of
Indian riverbank life. One senses that
this place was as much an anachronistic
fantasy when it was built as it is
now..."
Investigating the
colourful bar scene of Delhi, India.
Available for republication (print only).
Images
available. |
|
Walking Old Delhi With a Local
NineMSN Travel, April 2011
"There's
only one way to really discover Old
Delhi, the 17th century city laid out by
Moghul emperor and Taj Mahal creator
Shah Jahan: on two feet. Though the
government of India is centred on the
geometric streets of New Delhi, Old
Delhi has more historic appeal. Off
pulsing Chandni Chowk, the district's
incredibly busy main street, are dozens
of narrow alleyways leading to shopping
precincts and eateries."
Taking a heritage
walking tour through the fascinating streets
of Old Delhi.
|
|
Soi Tasty
The Sunday Age, 6 March 2011
"Ah,
food. It doesn’t take long for any
Bangkok conversation to turn to the
local cuisine. The frequent visitor will
have eaten with backpackers on the Khao
San Road, taken noodles in Chinatown,
tried samosas in Little India, dined
upmarket in Sukhumvit and sampled the
streets stall dishes of Banglamphu. Been
there, eaten that. But here comes
Bangkok’s latest hot eat street: Soi
Ari."
Exploring an
up-and-coming restaurant district of
Bangkok, Thailand.
Available for republication (print only).
Images
available. |
|
Best Vampire Spotting Locales
&
Top Ten Historical Re-enactments
Lonely Planet's Best in Travel 2011, November 2010
Two lists of distinctive
travel experiences in locales across the
world (including one in Indonesia, and one
in Japan).
This
book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.
Not
available for republication.
|
|
Mixed Spice
Medical Observer, 20
August 2010
"Walking from the
square to the waterfront, I stand under a
lone palm tree and gaze out over the
strait. I can’t see the island of Sumatra,
lying just beyond the horizon, but it’s
easy to imagine the spice traders of
bygone days threading their ships through
this body of water, braving pirates and
treacherous weather in order to be the
first to land their cargoes in far-flung
ports."
Investigating the
diverse history and culture of Melaka,
Malaysia.
Available
for republication (print and Web).
Images
available.
|
|
Rubbing away the Stresses of
the Day
Escape,
4 April 2010
(News
Ltd's Sunday travel section)
"I try something I’d
not previously heard of: tui na, a Chinese
massage that applies pressure to the
traditional acupuncture points. My masseur
is a Chinese-Malaysian woman of slight
stature, but surprising physical strength.
At the end of the hour she takes hold of
my head, says 'relax', then twists it
sharply till it clicks. Then in the other
direction as well. I feel strangely
flexible after all that."
Testing out three
styles of massage in Malaysia.
Available
for republication (print and Web).
Images
available.
|
|
Life in the Slow Lane
Jetstar Asia Magazine,
February 2010
"Bangkok is an
exciting and vibrant city at all hours of
the day, especially here in the commercial
centre where gigantic shopping malls line
busy roads, overshadowed by the Skytrain
elevated railway. But is it possible to
discover a more contemplative side to the
Thai capital? Having set out on foot
through the humid morning haze from my
hotel, I’m determined to give it a try."
Exploring the quieter
back streets of Bangkok, Thailand.
|
|
The Music of Old Shanghai
Sunday
Herald Sun, 24 January 2010
"As I listen to the
music, the waitress returns to top up my
jasmine tea with boiling water. Then, to
my intense surprise, the duo begins
playing a version of Click Go the Shears. I glance up, catch the erhu
player’s eye, and we exchange discreet
smiles. Like the decor of the tea house,
which features a jumble of items from
Shanghai’s 20th century past, it seems the
music selection is drawn from a variety of
sources across the years."
Tasting tea,
dumplings and the historic past in
Shanghai, China.
Available
for republication (print and Web).
Images
available.
|
|
A River Somewhere... in
Sarawak
The West Australian, 17
October 2009
"It’s time for the
moment I’ve been dreading: getting out on
the river. I’m a novice on the water,
being the kind of traveller who hangs
around cities investigating art galleries
and bars, so there’s some tension in the
air as we walk down to the sandy shore
below the village. Luckily, I’ll have the
able Ivy to guide us safely over the
admittedly tiny set of rapids we’ll
encounter en route."
A kayaking journey in
the state of Sarawak, Borneo, Malaysia.
Available
for republication (print and Web).
Images
available.
|
|
Wild & Free
Jetstar Asia Magazine,
October 2009
"Then comes the
character we’ve all been waiting for:
Ritchie swings down through the forest.
He’s huge! Alighting on the platform, he
samples the papayas and bananas, and then
selects a coconut. With three mighty
whacks against the wooden decking, Ritchie
smashes open the fruit and casually tastes
its interior. With a strength up to ten
times that of humans, an orangutan instils
a sense of awe."
Encountering wild
orangutans in the forests of Sarawak,
Borneo, Malaysia.
Not
available for republication.
|
|
Somewhere in Borneo...
Your Life Choices,
September 2009
"It’s a Monday and,
even for a travel writer, I’m experiencing
an unusual afternoon at work. I’m at the
front of a two-person kayak, paddling and
sometimes drifting down the Sarawak Kiri
River in Borneo, on my first-ever kayaking
foray. The humidity is relatively low,
it’s a hot sunny day, and I’m moving past
lush green banks. If only I could get my
balance right, I’d be in paradise."
I go kayaking in
Sarawak, Malaysia, on the tropical island
of Borneo.
Available
for republication (print and Web).
Images
available.
|
|
Shanghai Surprises
Medical Observer, 7
August 2009
"Never one to avoid
an amusingly tacky gift, I pick up a small
red wind-up alarm clock featuring an image
of Mao, with his arm frantically waving
his Little Red Book at the masses. I also
fancy a set of playing cards with interwar
Shanghai posters, another set depicting a
bizarre 1970s ballet involving women with
guns, and a relatively tasteful set of
worry balls featuring a dragon and a
phoenix."
Exploring the Old
Town district of Shanghai, China.
Available
for republication (print and Web).
Images
available.
|
|
Profound Devotion
The West Australian, 25
July 2009
"Music is playing
loudly, smoke is billowing from a nearby
shrine, and a flock of birds is flying
across the sky above the crowd. It’s an
invigorating atmosphere: a potent blend of
aroma, sound, colour, motion and human
vibrancy that reaches deeper than the
rational mind, intensely moving in both
its passion and the good humour of the
crowds which have come to share in it."
Witnessing the Hindu
festival of Thaipusam in Kuala Lumpur,
Malaysia.
Available
for republication (print and Web).
Images
available.
|
|
24
Hours in Kuala Lumpur
The Age & The Sydney
Morning Herald, 11 July 2009
"Younger
than most Australian cities, KL has the
energetic feel of a city still in the
process of establishing its identity,
symbolised by the contrasts between the
modern Kuala Lumpur City Centre,
bustling Chinatown, and its colonial
architecture. The icing on the cake - or
the sambal on the laksa, perhaps - is
the city's multi-ethnic population."
Outlining the
attractions of the Malaysian capital over
a single day.
Available
for republication (print only).
Images
available.
[Read the full article
here]
|
Lonely Planet TV:
Shanghai Snapshot
www.lonelyplanet.tv,
July 2009
In this video presentation I walk the streets of the Old
Town district of the Chinese city, and shop for some odd
souvenirs.
More
travel writing:
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Travel: Asia
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I'm a
member of the Australian Society of Travel
Writers. This page contains examples
of my travel writing, organised by
location. Each entry includes a sample
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international locations.
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